When to go
Visit Svalbard defines the "northern lights winter" as 1 October – 28 February. The sun sets around 26 October and doesn't rise until mid-February; from mid-November to late January there is not even twilight.
Full-moon weeks are an interesting choice: moonlight lights the dark landscape, so you can see aurora and snowy mountains together around midday. Some businesses close over Christmas, so the period after New Year is easier.
Daytime aurora and odds
Because the polar night keeps Longyearbyen dark all day, it is one of the few places where you can see the dayside aurora. The Kjell Henriksen Observatory, which studies it, sits just outside Longyearbyen.
On the other hand, in quiet conditions the main night-side auroral belt can lie south of Svalbard. Being further north than Tromsø doesn't automatically mean more aurora; it is a different experience.
Where to watch
Longyearbyen is small but lit; dark valleys start just outside town. Because of polar bears, though, you don't leave the settlement without a guide.
- Adventdalen valley: The wide, dark valley most tours head to.
- Snowmobile and dog-sled tours: Evening trips to mountain cabins are good aurora opportunities.
- Dark spots within the settlement: Ask your guide; never walk beyond the boundary on your own.
Getting there and where to stay
All accommodation is in Longyearbyen, with the airport close to town. You can walk around the small town, but anything outside the settlement needs an organised tour.
Svalbard is expensive: tours, lodging and food cost more than on the mainland. Winter flights are limited, so fix dates early.
Safety: polar bears and cold
Visit Svalbard says about 3,000 polar bears live in the area and can be met anywhere, at any time of year. The local advice is clear: always leave the settlement on an organised excursion with a local guide.
Wind chill drives the felt temperature very low; a face mask, goggles and layers are essential. Some slopes around Longyearbyen carry avalanche risk; obey warning signs.